your power freedom system

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HOW TO INSTALL YOUR OFF-GRID SYSTEM AND SAVE $1000’s

Copyright Copyright © 2013 by Power Freedom Inc. All rights reserved. This book or any portion thereof may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the publisher except for the use of brief quotations in a book review. ISBN 978-0-9919135-0-3 Power Freedom Inc. www.PowerFreedom.com 

Disclaimer By using, viewing and interacting with the Power Freedom guide or the PowerFreedom.com website, you agree to all terms of engagement, thus assuming complete responsibility for your own actions. The authors and publishers will not be held liable or claim accountability for any loss or injuries. Use, view, and interact with these resources at your own risk. All products from PowerFreedom.com and its related companies are strictly for informational purposes only. While all attempts have been made to verify the accuracy of information provided on our website and within the publications, neither the authors nor the publishers are responsible for assuming liability for possible inaccuracies. The authors and publishers disclaim any responsibility for the inaccuracy of the content, including but not limited to errors or omissions. Loss of property, injury to self or others, and even death could occur as a direct or indirect consequence of the use and application of any content found herein. Working with renewable energy sources is dangerous. Since you are dealing with electricity, high roof tops and numerous other unknown conditions, seek expert opinions and help where necessary. The authors and publishers assume that, while carrying out your DIY project, you are aware of all the risks and possible damages associated with renewable energy. Check with your town, city, state, province, county or country for applicable laws about home improvements and alterations. Often, it is necessary to obtain local government permits and licenses to prevent legal implications. We also recommend that you call your local electrician, and other professionals, to assist in your project. Failure to do so could cause injury or death - you are acting at your own risk. By choosing to use the information made available on PowerFreedom.com or within any of our publications, you agree to indemnify, defend, and hold harmless the authors, publishers, and any other related companies from all claims (whether valid or invalid), judgments, suits, proceedings, losses, damages, and costs or expenses of any nature whatsoever that result from the use or misuse of any information provided. The information provided may need to be downloaded using third party software, such as Acrobat. It’s the user’s responsibility to install the software necessary to view such information. Any downloads, whether purchased or given for free from our website, related websites, or hosting systems, are done at the user’s own risk. No warranty is given that websites are free of corrupting computer codes, viruses or worms. If you are a minor, you can use this service only with permission and guidance from your parents or guardians. Children are not eligible to use our services unsupervised. Furthermore, this Website specifically denies access to any individual covered by the Child Online Privacy Act (COPA) of 1998.

CONTENTS Disclaimer .............................................................................................................................................................. ii PART 1: INTRODUCTION ......................................................................................................... Introduction ................................................................................................................................................... 1 Local Laws, Regulations & Electrical Safety ........................................................................................ 3 Assessing Your Home Energy Requirements ..................................................................................... 8 Determining Your Energy Generation Focus ................................................................................... 13

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PART 2: SOLAR PANEL INSTALLATION ................................................................................ Introduction ................................................................................................................................................ 14 Safety ............................................................................................................................................................. 16 Roof Mount Installation .......................................................................................................................... 20 STEP 1: Mount Brackets on Panel ................................................................................................. 21 STEP 2: Mark Starting Points on the Roof ................................................................................. 22 STEP 3: Position First Panel .............................................................................................................. 23 STEP 4: Attach First Panel ................................................................................................................. 24 STEP 5: Attach Remaining Panels in Series ................................................................................ 24 STEP 6: Wiring Panels in Series ...................................................................................................... 24 STEP 7: Repeat Steps for Next Row .............................................................................................. 24 Ground Mount Solar Panel Installation ............................................................................................ 25 STEP 1: Dig Footings ......................................................................................................................... 27 STEP 2: Create Leveling Stakes ..................................................................................................... 28 STEP 3: Insert Stakes & Lay Piping .............................................................................................. 28 STEP 4: Measure Pipe Heights & Cut ......................................................................................... 29 STEP 5: Insert Support Pipes & Center ...................................................................................... 29 STEP 6: Attach Support Rails With Assembly .......................................................................... 30 STEP 7: Pour Concrete ...................................................................................................................... 30 STEP 8: Remove Forms & Install Solar Panels ......................................................................... 31 STEP 9: Complete Ground Mount Installation ........................................................................ 32

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PART 3: WIND GENERATOR INSTALLATION ........................................................................ 33 Introduction ................................................................................................................................................. 33 Choosing the Best Setup for Your Wind Generator ..................................................................... 33 PART 4: RUNNING POWER CABLES ..................................................................................... Introduction ................................................................................................................................................ 43 Cable Installation........................................................................................................................................ 44 Wiring Methods and Setup ................................................................................................................... 46

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PART 5: CONNECTING YOUR POWER FREEDOM SYSTEM ................................................. Introduction ................................................................................................................................................. 47 Electrical System Components ............................................................................................................. 48 Off-Grid Setup ........................................................................................................................................... 51 Connecting A Battery Bank .................................................................................................................. 52

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PART 6: CONCLUSION ........................................................................................................... Closing Remarks ........................................................................................................................................ 55

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1

INTRODUCTION



important

Read this manual completely before you do anything so that you know how many solar panels or wind turbines you will need to build. Depending on your plans and energy needs, there may also be additional components like batteries that your system will require!

INTRODUCTION If you are reading this then you are either tired of paying ridiculous prices for electricity, or you simply want to do your part in saving our environment. Perhaps you just have some time and want something to do that’s interesting and rewarding. Regardless of what brought us to your attention, you’ll be amazed at the results you’ll see, and how simple and well laid-out our design is… In terms of cost vs. reliability, no other DIY renewable energy systems that are available can match the performance of PowerFreedom! The savings that solar and wind technology can yield are enormous. The only reason we do not see solar panels and wind generators all over the rooftops of America is simply because the utility companies wish to make a profit from your need for electricity. Twenty-five years ago, the cost of solar panels was outrageous and made “going green” just way too expensive. Today, the solar and wind generation market at the public level is thriving, so the cost of the required materials for your build is far more affordable. This also means you have options in terms of choosing which or how many items you wish to install.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

This is the starting point of your project. You are about to embark on a hands-on journey that will save you thousands! You will also begin doing your part to save our dying planet from the carbon emissions. Every day, coal-burning power plants pump harmful toxins into our atmosphere. These toxins come back down to Earth in the form of rain, falling all over our crops and properties. This shouldn’t be the price we have to pay for the electricity we need! The wind turbine and solar panel manuals will take you through the build of each of these respectively. You will also want to read them in their entirety before you begin. The manual that you are now reading is the PowerFreedom Installation Guide, in which we will tie both the solar panel and wind turbine renewable energy systems together into a common electrical system that converts the 12 volts of DC electricity you’re generating (average) into 120 Volts AC electricity – exactly what you need to power your household electronics. The PowerFreedom Electrical System is the “brains” of your project! There are 2 types of systems you can build: grid-tie (“on-grid”) or off-grid. Grid-tie systems tend to be more expensive, and technical but it is strongly recommended if you’re going to build a large system that will give you the biggest savings possible. Off-grid systems are convenient for people who live in an area without a local utility company to supply power - farm living or at a cottage. In this book we will show you how to setup an off-grid system for your emergency needs. We will start by discussing how to determine the proper location for your solar panels and wind generators. Exposure to direct sunlight and a consistent supply of wind is of utmost importance. If neither are achieved, you won’t be generating any power. Finally, we’ll show you how to mount the components of your system in their respective locations using mounting brackets or weights. Cables or power cords will also be explained in full. Buying cables can be expensive and you must ensure that you are using a cable that can support the peak load of the current that you are generating. It is also of critical importance that you fuse your cables properly to ensure your safety… So pay close attention! System monitoring components, batteries, charge controllers and a few other items are essential to your setup. Because we cover a large array of different setups, you will need to match a setup to both your budget and your unique power needs. Making a good plan is the first step! We will also discuss how to determine the amount of power your home or business uses, and how much of that load you want your system to accommodate. In other words, you need to figure how much power you draw, then see what you need to supply the demand. Then, determine the cost of materials and consider your options. The choice is yours! Let’s Begin…

INtroduction

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LOCAL LAWS, REGULATIONS & ELECTRICAL SAFETY LOCAL LAWS & REGULATIONS When starting any building project on your property, you must find out from your local regulating authorities what type of building permits may be required. And since we’re manipulating electrical power here, it’s almost a certainty that you’ll be facing some sort of regulations or restrictions. Whenever you’re renovating or altering your home, you are, by law, required to obtain the related permits before the work is started. But usually, you just have to fill out a form or two and submit them to the correct office for approval. Most building permits can be obtained on the same working day. However, in certain countries, states or municipalities, your request may need to be reviewed individually and could take a few weeks’ time. Aside from building permits, you must also inquire about electrical safety. Each state has an electrical safety code. These codes are written by a safety board or association that’s government approved to ensure that electrical work performed is tested and safe. The easiest way to fool-proof your setup is to create a “mock-up”, or schematic, of your plan on paper with all the values included (ie. volts, fuse amp ratings, inverter output). Pay close attention to how you will be connecting all the wiring. Then, contact your local electrical service provider and ask them to review your setup. They should expose any problems with your plan, and will outline any changes you may need to make.

ELECTRICAL SAFETY The dangers of electricity include a variety of hazards that include electric shock, psychological damage, physical burns, neurological damage and ventricular fibrillation (heart attacks), potentially resulting in death. Any form of energy, when not properly controlled or harnessed, can pose a serious danger to those using and working with it. The risks inherent with electric power can generally be divided into two categories: direct and indirect. The direct danger is the damage that the power itself can do to the human body, such as burns or the stoppage of breathing or regular heartbeats. The indirect dangers of electricity include any harm to a human body as the result of something caused by electric shock, such as a fall, an explosion or a fire. Electricity at any voltage can be dangerous and should always be approached with caution. An electrical shock can occur upon contact with any current high enough to cause sufficient current flow through the muscles or nerves. The minimum current a human can feel is estimated to be an average of about 1 milliampere (mA). As little as 80 milliamperes can seize the heart muscle, causing a potentially fatal heart attack. A fatal electric shock is referred to as electrocution.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

Psychological: Your perception of the absorption of electric shock will vary depending on the voltage, duration, current, path taken, frequency, etc. Current entering the hand has a threshold of perception of about 5 to 10 mA (milliamperes) for DC and about 1 to 10 mA for AC at 60 Hz. Shock perception declines with increasing frequency, ultimately disappearing at frequencies above 15-20 kHz. This means that you may not realize you’re being shocked until it’s too late.

Burns: Dangers of electrical shock may include physical burns. High-voltage shocks (greater than 500 volts) tend to cause internal burns due to the large amount of energy coming from the source. This is can be calculated as being equal to the duration of the shock multiplied by the square of the voltage. In some cases, 16 volts might be fatal to a human being when the electricity passes through vulnerable organs, such as the heart.

Heart Attacks: A low-voltage (110 to 220 V), 50 or 60-Hz AC current travelling through the chest for a fraction of a second may induce heart attacks at currents as low as 60mA. With DC, 300 to 500 mA is required. If the current has a direct pathway to the heart (e.g., via a cardiac catheter or other kind of electrode), a much lower current of less than 1 mA, (AC or DC) can cause a heart attack. Muscular tissue contractions are often lethal because all the heart muscle cells move independently. Even lower currents can exceed 200mA, at which point the contractions are so strong that the heart muscles cannot move at all.

Neurological Effects: Other dangers of electricity can include interference with nervous control, especially over the heart and lungs. Repeated or severe electric shock not resulting in death has been shown to leave victims with a high rate of trauma to their central nervous systems, resulting in a wide range of symptoms under the broad definition of “neuropathy.”



important This is for your safety and you must understand that this installation should be done by a licensed electrician in your state or country. If you are unfamiliar with AC and DC electricity, the physical injuries and death warnings that were stated above can occur if your system is improperly installed or handled!

Introduction

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DRILLING INTO WALLS You may not see electrical wires near where you plan to work but this doesn’t mean there aren’t any. Even if you do see wires, there may be others you cannot see. Electrical wiring may sometimes look like pipes, and may be a range of different colors. Before you drill or start cutting into walls: „„ Look for electrical wires and any other hazards such as asbestos „„ Remember to look on both sides of walls „„ Try to get your hands on plans of the existing electrical installation, and use these to locate hidden electrical wiring „„ If you have some electrical experience, use a suitable cable detector, or get a licensed electrician to do it for you (Remember that some cable detectors won’t find a wire carrying a small current – consult the user guide) „„ Look for nearby electrical equipment and follow the wires „„ Use equipment that will minimize the risks of the work „„ Wear suitable protective clothing If you are at any time in doubt about the best and safest way to proceed, STOP WORK and consult a licensed electrician.

Underground Cables Whether you are digging holes for the concrete footings of guy-wires or burying a power cable, chances are you’ll be doing some digging. Any time you are disturbing the earth, you should take extra care to avoid damaging other underground utilities. Underground electricity

cables can be particularly hazardous because they often look like pipes and it is impossible to tell if they are live just by looking at them. Sometimes there are signs warning of underground services. Where you see these signs, you should ask a skilled and knowledgeable person to locate the hazards so that you can dig safely.

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JUST A FEW OF THE UNDERGROUND CABLE WARNING SIGNS YOU MAY SEE ON YOUR PROPERTY.

How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

It is not required, but if you wish to hide your cables underground for aesthetic purposes, look at the chart below for the correct procedure to follow when digging.

Refer to plans of buried services

Use locating devices

Sevices located and confirmed by trial holes as necessary?

Is there a reasonable explanation for not being located?

NO

NO

YES YES

Obtain more information and plans if possible

YES

YES

Carry out excavation near services by hand digging

Evidence of other services?

Dig as many trial holes as necessary by hand

YES

Services exposed?

NO

Contact owners of services

NO Is work close to services?

NO

Use tools of choice

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Cable Colors Many electrical cables are colored to show their purpose and the voltage that they are carrying. However, there are many standards used around the world, and you should never assume that a cable of a particular color is at a particular voltage. A free information leaflet is probably available from your local utility company and will give you the details of recent changes to the color code. It is very important that you identify what voltages are present on any installation that you are not familiar with.

Making Sure The Power Is Off If you are not knowledgeable enough to check if the power is off, ask a competent person to do it for you and watch them doing it. If you have any doubts about the method they have used, consult another professional. When checking to see if the power is off, a skilled electrician will ensure the following: 1. The switch being used to turn off the power is working correctly and reliably 2. The equipment and method being used to check for voltage works and is reliable 3. The switch being used is the only way that the circuit can be fed with electrical power 4. The switch being used is locked in the off position and cannot easily be turned on again Some electrical systems and equipment must be unearthed before it is safe to work near them. Check whether this is necessary. If so, ensure that this is done properly.

Making Sure The Power Stays Off If the electrical power has been turned off to allow you to do work safely, it is essential that the power stays off until you have finished work. Make sure that YOU are in control and that you STAY in control. A good way is to have the only key to the switch or to the locked room or cabinet containing the switch. Remember, if you remove a fuse, another one could be inserted in its place, and people often ignore notices. If you have any doubts about the electricity being turned on again without your knowledge, STOP WORKING IMMEDIATELY! The biggest thing to remember is to never hold both exposed wires that have power at the same time. For DC, that would be holding the red positive and the black negative. For AC, it would be holding the white polarized and black neutral. 12 Volts cannot penetrate your body as you have a natural resistance, but household 120 Volt systems can. Because we are connecting through a common wire from DC to AC, its best to simply assume that it’s all LIVE! Most importantly, never cross the 2 opposing wires, as this creates a “short”. A short occurs when you apply 2 opposite power sources without a load between them. For example, if you were to use a single wire to connect the negative and positive posts of a car battery, the

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

insulation around the wire would instantaneously melt and start a fire! The heat, shock and damage from burning would continue until the current stopped flowing… But by then, your connection may not be the only thing burning! A load only draws the power it needs based on its resistance. If you have no resistance, mathematically, the amperage becomes infinite. Not 10 amps, not 1000 amps. It keeps going up exponentially until something gives.

ASSESSING YOUR HOME ENERGY REQUIREMENTS If you are just beginning to explore solar power as an option for your home, or if you’re still not sure that solar power is right for you, a quick look at the following chart is a good place to begin:

Advantages

Disadvantages

Works great in cities where by-laws may prevent you from installing a wind generator

Takes up a lot of space

Generates power more consistently than wind

Higher initial cost when compared to wind generators

Because they have no moving parts they can last many years and require very little maintenance

Only works when sun is shinning

If the above chart didn’t immediately rule your property out as a candidate for solar power, the next step is to arrange a home power assessment with a qualified evaluator – or “energy advisor.” While this is in no way required (unless by law) in order for you to set up a high-performance solar power system for your home, it can be helpful and cost-effective in the long run. Assessors are qualified and trained professionals who have the tools and the insight to identify places in your home where you are losing costly energy. According to recent estimates, 19 out of 20 American homes need help in efficiently managing the power they draw from the grid! Many of their recommended power-saving measures are as simple as replacing dry and crumbling window caulking or eroded weather stripping. Other easy fixes include the blockingoff of unused chimneys that could well be sending your hard-earned money flying out through your roof!

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Obviously, these are expenses that we would all rather avoid, and it is dangerously easy to ignore problems when we can’t see them… But the truth is that you see them every month in your electricity bill and probably don’t notice because they have been there all along. The point is that part of making sure that you get the most value out of your home solar power system is reducing the risk of wasting any of the power that you generate, translating directly into more and more money in your pocket!

Why getting an energy assessment done on your house by a professional could be the best home energy investment you make: „„ These professionals can identify areas of efficiency and weakness, and will make a list of recommendations for your home’s improvement that will target energy losses in order of priority. „„ Some optional renovations may be quite costly, yet may only have a minor effect on your home’s energy efficiency, but home energy assessors will tell you where you are likely to benefit from the greatest savings so you will know that your money has been invested wisely. „„ You will receive a badge or sticker for your home that is equivalent to certification of any improvements that increase your home’s energy efficiency and allows you to raise the value of your home. „„ By volunteering for an energy assessment you will automatically qualify to be eligible for tax rebates and government grant dollars towards any energy-related improvements that you make to your home. The assessor will start by taking measurements of the inside and outside of your home. Special attention will be paid to the building materials and insulation, if any. They will take careful note of locations of all doors and windows. Special attention will be paid to insulation levels throughout the building, including basement walls, crawlspaces and attics. The evaluator will inspect your current heating and cooling system so that they are able to recommend the best possible options for reducing energy usage in your home. If they decide that it’s necessary for an accurate assessment of your home’s energy-efficiency, the assessor will carry out a “blower door” test. In this test, a calibrated fan for measuring the speed and pressure of air flow is used to determine your home’s air–tightness. The most common sites of leakage are windows and doors, pot lights, outlets, and fireplaces. To get the most of your evaluation you should ensure that the assessor gives you at least one practical solution for every problem that they identify. Follow your assessor through your home as they work and feel free to ask questions! If you follow the assessor’s recommendations, you

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

may wish to schedule a second appointment so that you can compare each assessment and see without a doubt the difference your improvements have made. After your follow–up assessment, you should be in excellent shape to apply for your energy saving grants and rebates. Again, these measures are not required before you set up your own solar power system at home, but if you’re going to go to the trouble anyway, you may as well identify all of the places that your home stands to lose precious energy… And when your solar panels are up and running, the difference you see in your utility costs will only be that much more impressive! The investment is yours to make, but don’t be intimidated… Most home energy assessments cost anywhere between $99 and $250, with follow–up evaluation costing around $100, if not initially covered. Obviously, the potential pay–off for eliminating these potential efficiency weaknesses in your home is guaranteed to make it worthwhile: Remember that you are keeping your focus on long–term savings here! If you would love to have a professional home energy assessment done on your home, but don’t have the money, you’ll be thrilled with our DIY Home Energy Audit book. Check out “101 Saving Tips” for your complete guide to saving energy in your home.

Estimating Appliance & Home Electronic Energy Use First, you must see how much power your home is using. The quickest way to do that is to simply go through your power bills. Your utility company shows you your consumption of power based on month and may show you last year’s intake as well. You can also find the watt rating of all your electronics and write them down on a sheet of paper with the average amount of time that device is active per day! If you’re trying to decide whether to invest in a more energy efficient appliance, or if you’d like to determine your electricity loads, you may want to estimate appliance energy consumption.

Formula for Estimating Energy Consumption & Cost You can use this formula to estimate an appliance’s energy use:

(Watts × Hours/Day) ÷ 1000 = Daily kWh consumption (1 kW = 1,000 Watts) Multiply this by the number of days you use the appliance during the year for the annual consumption. You can then calculate the annual cost to run an appliance by multiplying the kWh per year by your local utility’s rate per kWh consumed.

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Helpful Tip



To estimate the number of hours that a refrigerator actually operates at its maximum wattage, divide the total time that the refrigerator is plugged in (24 hours a day for the vast majority of people) by three. Refrigerators, although turned “on” all the time, actually cycle on and off as needed to maintain interior temperatures, which is usually about a third of each day.

Examples: Window fan: (200 Watts × 4 hours/day × 120 days/year) ÷ 1000 = 96 kWh × 8.5 cents/kWh = $8.16/year Personal Computer and Monitor: (120 + 150 Watts × 4 hours/day × 365 days/year) ÷ 1000 = 394 kWh × 8.5 cents/kWh = $33.51/year

Wattage You can usually find the wattage of most appliances stamped on the bottom or back of the appliance, or on its nameplate. The wattage listed is the maximum power drawn by the appliance. Since many appliances have a range of settings (for example, the volume on a radio or power amp), the actual amount of power consumed depends on the setting used at any one time. If the wattage is not listed on the appliance, you can still estimate it by finding the current draw (in amperes) and multiplying that by the voltage used by the appliance. Most appliances in the United States use 120 volts. Larger appliances, such as clothes dryers and electric cook tops, use 240 volts. The amperes might be stamped on the unit in place of the wattage. If not, find a clamp–on ammeter. This is an electrician’s tool that clamps around one of the two wires on the appliance to measure and display the amount of current flowing through it. You can obtain this type of ammeter in stores that sell electrical and electronic equipment. Take a reading while the device is running and you will read the actual amount of current being used at that time.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

When measuring the current drawn by a motor, note that the meter will show about three times more current in the first second that the motor starts than when it is up to speed and running consistently. Many appliances continue to draw a small amount of power when they are switched “off.” These “phantom loads” occur in most appliances that use electricity, such as DVD players, video game consoles, televisions, stereos, computers and kitchen appliances. Most phantom loads will increase the appliance’s energy consumption by a few watt–hours. These excess loads can be avoided by unplugging the appliance or using a power strip and using the switch on the power strip to cut all power to the appliance.

Typical Wattages of Various Appliances Here are some examples of the range of nameplate wattages for various household appliances: • Aquarium = 50–1210 Watts • Clock radio = 10 • Coffee maker = 900–1200 • Clothes washer = 350–500 • Clothes dryer = 1800–5000 • Dishwasher = 1200–2400 (using the drying feature greatly increases energy consumption) • Dehumidifier = 785 • Electric blanket– Single/Double = 60 / 100 • Fans Ceiling = 65–175 Window = 55–250 Furnace = 750 • Hair dryer = 1200–1875 • Heater (portable) = 750–1500 • Microwave oven = 750–1100 • Personal computer CPU – awake / asleep = 120 / 30 or less Monitor – awake / asleep = 150 / 30 or less Laptop = 50 • Radio (stereo) = 70–400 • Refrigerator (frost–free, 16 cubic feet) = 725 • Televisions (color) 27” = 113 36” = 133 53”–61” Projection = 170 Flat screen = 120 • Toaster = 800–1400 • VCR/DVD = 17–21 / 20–25 • Vacuum cleaner = 1000–1440 • Water heater (40 gallon) = 4500–5500 • Water pump (deep well) = 250–1100 • Water bed (with heater, no cover) = 120–380

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DETERMINING YOUR ENERGY GENERATION FOCUS Now that you know how much power your home draws, it’s time to think about what type of system you wish to build and how much power you wish to generate. Generally, most folks like to use an off-grid setup, for their woodshops, sheds, cottages or for emergency backup. The cost of a full-blown, 5000 watt solar power generating system is not exactly cheap – especially if you’re paying full price on your panels, equipment and paying for installation! You will want to break down what your average power consumption is in watts-per-hour. Most are around the 1000 watt hour mark. That is your monthly usage, divided by 31 days in a month, and then divided again by the 24 hours in the day. If you don’t live in an area of the United States that enjoys a strong and consistent wind resource, then building a wind turbine is probably not the wisest investment of time and materials. Still, if you just wanted to experiment and learn with your wind power project, you will still be able to charge smaller devices like cell phones, laptops or batteries for your golf carts and lawn tractors. When charging devices, you will want to match or surpass your needed energy draw. Ideally, you need to find out how long it takes to recharge, times the amp/hr rating of the battery with the voltage (to give you watts) and match your power draw accordingly. Remember, that most places on Earth get six hours of usable power from the sun every day, and most batteries should charge in that time. So, if your battery is 1000 watts an hour and it takes 6 hours to recharge, you would want to build a 1200 watt panel. It is strongly recommended that you strive to accommodate an additional 200 watts beyond your minimum requirements, just to be safe. Cost is the next subject of consideration. This is where you must decide if “going big” is a budgetary reality for you or not. Planning first will always give you a realistic appraisal of what your system should cost, how efficient it will be and what scale of system you will be able to afford at first. Don’t worry if your budget is limited… The PowerFeedom system is easily expandable when you’re ready to build and integrate new panels and/or wind turbines! For the more experienced alterative power enthusiast, big systems are always a better investment because you end up saving the most in the long run. However, these veterans all learned by starting small… and that includes David Bradley, the creator of the PowerFreedom system! 1000 watts per hour is 24,000 watts, or 24 kw (kilowatts), a day. Twenty-five percent of that is 6000 watts. So, if you install a 6000 watt/day system in your home, you will have covered 25% of your home energy needs. Please source your materials and equipment needs to sum your total cost and compare.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

2

SOLAR PANEL INSTALLATION

Introduction You have now constructed your solar panels and are ready to mount them. There are 2 locations on your property that you should consider – an unobstructed patch of your property at ground level, or the south-facing slope of a roof. Opting for a solar panel ground mount makes life easy because you don’t have to carry the panels to the roof and configure a mount there. Let’s not forget how fragile solar cells can be even beneath a protective piece of polycarbonate. If your property sees a lot of human activity and leisure recreation, your panels may be safer on the roof. In either case, please ensure that any cables are either buried or securely mounted so that they are not compromised by feet, animals or tools such as lawnmowers or shovels.

Choosing the Best Placement for Your Panels You will need to determine the north, south, east and west sides of your property. We all know that the sun rises in the east and sets in the west. You need to run the length of the panel from east to west in order to capture the maximum amount of sunlight. Also, the sun may run more or less–diagonally along the north side or south side of the skyline. If this is the case, the north side of the home will get more sun when the sun moves more to the north. The same is true for the south-facing side of your home, as the sun moves across the eastern corner of the skyline. So, if you’ve opted for a roof mount, set up your panels on the side that gets the most sun. If you have decided to use a ground mount instead, simply tilt the panels so that they are perpendicular to the angle of the sun’s rays. Do this between 12 to 2pm when the sun is at its peak, or the highest point it reaches in the sky throughout the course of the day.

Solar panel installation

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important Consider the condition of your roof before you get started. If you’re going to need a new roof in a few years, you may be better off waiting until the new roof is in place, or replace the section of the roof you plan to install the panels on. Solar panels can last 25 years or more and if you need to replace the roof in between, you’ll have to remove all the panels first. This can be a big expense. That’s why it’s best to wait if you are planning on replacing your roof soon.



WARNING If the thought of being on your roof scares you, DO NOT attempt to install the solar panels yourself. A few hundred dollars is not worth the risk of injury or improper installation. Contact a certified solar installer to help you with your project.



safety All regional safety requirements should be followed when installing recommended products. All equipment/tools should be properly maintained and inspected prior to use. Any exposed studs should be protectively capped to help avoid injury. This installation manual is intended for use by those with good working knowledge of construction principles.



important Installation procedures should be performed in compliance with local authority having jurisdiction regulations, OSHA protection codes, most recent National Electrical Code, ANSI/NFPA 70, local utility requirements, and other applicable guidelines that pertain.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

Safety Above all else, safety is the most important. Solar panels generate dangerous voltages, not to mention the physical dangers inherent in climbing around on your roof using power tools. If you do the installation yourself, follow all the safety instructions provided.

General Guidelines The following are some general guidelines for ensuring a safe installation: • Read All Instructions – Thoroughly read all the instructions and installation videos before attempting to install your own solar panels. • Use Common Sense – Each roof layout is different. As are the conditions you must work in. Adapt to protect yourself • Be Alert At All Times – The fact is most people get hurt when they’re not paying attention. Don’t do two things at once such as talking on your cell phone while you’re on your roof. Remember to stay hydrated at all times. • Fall Protection – Falls are the leading cause of injury when installing solar panels. Read the “Fall Protection” section and make sure to follow all recommendations. • Power Tools – Power tools can be dangerous if used improperly. Read the “Hand & Power Tool Safety” section. • Personal Safety Equipment – Always wear the appropriate safety gear when working on solar projects. Follow the recommendations in the “Personal Protective Equipment” section. • Comply With Code – Safety code is made for a reason. Don’t dismiss it. Follow it to a T. • Avoid Slippery Roofs – It’s best to wait until your roof is dry. Rain, snow, frost or dew can make your roof slippery. Wind is another concern, it’s best to wait for a better day. • Keep It Clean – Sweep the roof frequently to remove shingle particles that can become slippery. • Don’t Try To Do This Alone– Installing solar panels is a job for 2 or more people. Trying to install it yourself will put your safety at risk. Also, always follow smart lifting practices to avoid back and general body injuries. • Call Before You Dig – If you’re installing a ground mounted system, make sure you call the city to make sure there aren’t any gas pipes or electrical wires where you plan to dig.

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• Don’t Tamper With Modules – You my void warranty and/or cause serious bodily injury. Modules contain no user-serviceable parts. To replace a defective module, please contact customer service to obtain an RMA number. • Assume The Power Is On – Never assume your system is safe, even if it’s supposed to be. Solar modules generate electricity when exposed to light and can cause shock and burn hazards. Even though this system has been designed to reduce hazards, never touch live terminals with bare hands. Use insulated tools for electrical connections. • Understand Grounding – The purpose of grounding is to prevent unwanted currents flowing through people or equipment. If you’re not properly grounded, you can be killed if something goes wrong. Ensure you have GFCI, disconnects and lockout tags.

Fall Protection SAFETY HARNESS Falls are the leading cause of injury and death when installing solar panels. The best way to prevent falls is to wear a safety harness at all times. This applies to each and every person on the roof. They can be purchased at your local hardware store. Review the install guide that came with your safety harness for complete installation instructions. Always make sure you are using the safety harness properly and that it is securely tied off to your roof. LADDERS For most homes, you’ll need a ladder to access your roof. Improper use of ladders can lead to injury or death. Use ladders only for their intended purposes and never tie ladders together to make longer sections.

A NABCEP certified contractor wearing the appropriate safety attire.

„„ Use A Good Ladder – Make sure you have a good, sturdy ladder that can safely bear your weight. Aluminum or Fiberglass ladders are best. Inspect the ladder for visible defects, like broken or missing rungs. „„ Secure Your Ladder – Ladders should extend 3 to 3 ½ ft. above rain gutter and for every 4ft height increase move the ladder 1ft out from the base. It should sit firmly on a level base. Do NOT use ladders on slippery surfaces. You should tie off the bottom of the ladder to a stake driven into the ground. Remember not to overreach to either side while on the ladder.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

„„ Portable Ladders – When using a portable ladder for access to an upper landing surface, the side rails must extend at least 3 ft. above the upper landing surface.

Tie Off Point

3 ft

Hand & Power Tool Safety Power tools make work faster and let you complete projects much easier. With that convenience, however, comes many safety concerns. Power tools are extremely hazardous when used or maintained improperly. Special care should be taken when operating power tools. Safety goggles or a safety mask should be worn while operating power tools. Shards of metal or wood can dislodge at high speed and do irreparable damage to eyes or the soft tissue of the face. Safety footwear can provide some protection against electric shock and can also protect toes if heavy items are dropped.

16 ft

4 ft

Guards should be installed on power tools to protect the user from exposed moving parts. A safety guard should never be removed while a tool is in operation. Power tools should be plugged into a grounded receptacle. Electric shock is a hazard to be avoided since it can easily be fatal. Never use tools in or around water unless they are doubleinsulated. Store tools in a dry place and maintain them properly. Replace frayed or worn cords on power tools. Pneumatic tools are tools powered by compressed air and can be very dangerous without proper caution. Before using, make sure that tools are secure on the air hose so that they don’t fly off when operating. Pay close attention when using these powerful tools and maintain a safe distance from people who are operating them. Eye protection is a must, and screens can also be helpful to protect bystanders or other workers. Never point a pneumatic tool at a person or animal. Keep your work area well-lit and free of debris. Properly maintain tools and replace worn parts. Insist that everyone who uses power tools wear safety equipment. Do not operate power tools while distracted or under the influence of drugs or alcohol. Respect the strength of these tools and use common sense while working.

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Here are some additional guidelines and precautions when using power tools: „„ Follow manufactures instructions „„ Disconnect tools when not in use, for cleaning or when changing accessories „„ Do not wear loose clothing and jewelry that can get caught in moving parts „„ Do not use electric cords to carry, hoist or lower tools „„ All tools and equipment located on the roof should be secured to avoid falling object hazards.

Personal Protective Equipment Safety equipment such as protective clothing, gloves, footwear, helmets and safety glasses are designed to protect your body from impacts, electrical hazards, heat and chemicals and other related safety hazards. It’s your responsibility to make sure you’re wearing them at all times.

„„ Safety Helmet – Wear a safety helmet at all times whether you are on the roof or on the ground. Heavy objects may roll down the roof and injure you. „„ Eye Protection – Choose safety glasses that comfortably fit with a single or double lens. If you require, prescription lenses are available.

Safety glasses.

„„ Work Gloves - Wear durable gloves made of leather or high performance materials to protect from cuts, burns and exposure to live voltage. „„ Wear Rubber Soled Shoes – Rubber soled shoes provide much better traction than leather soled boots. Make sure your shoes are in good condition and tied snugly.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

Work gloves.

Roof Mount Installation What You’ll Need - Parts & tools „„ Drill

„„ Wire holding loops for the cables

„„ Drill bits

„„ 3/8 x 1 inch screws for the wire loops (1 per loop)

„„ Chalk line

„„ Medium sized black zip–ties

„„ Screwdriver bits „„ Measuring Tape „„ 90 degree angle brackets (4 per panel) „„ 3/8 x 1 inch screws for the bracket to roof (2 per bracket) „„ 1/4 x 1/2 inch bolts with 2 flat washers, 1 nut & 1 lock washer for the bracket to panel (2 per bracket) „„ Roof caulking to seal the screws going into the roof



important The bottom is where the cells give off heat, making the backside of the panel warm.



important Remember not to mount your panels right next to each other. We want to avoid heat transfer, trapping heat and precipitation built up!

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STEP 1: MOUNT BRACKETS ON PANEL Let’s start by mounting the brackets to the panel first. Mount the brackets along the length of the panel, 2 per side, just beyond the corner wood mounts of the panel itself.

JUST AFTER CORNER WOOD MOUNT

A: Lining up brackets Simply place the bracket up to your first corner, making sure the bracket is pointing away from the panel. Leave a 2 inch distance between the bottom of the panel to the bottom of the bracket so that you allow for ample air circulation on the underside of your panel. Keep all the brackets level to the panel. Use a pencil and mark two holes, side by side, that you will drill.

2 INCHES

2 INCHES

B: ATTACHING THE BRACKETS Use a 1/4 inch drill bit and drill the holes. Then, take a bolt and place a washer on it. Put it through the panel first and then the bracket so the bracket is on the inside of the panel. Place another washer on the other side of the bolt, then the lock washer, then the nut and tighten the nut securely to the bolt squeezing the bracket to the panel. Install the other 3 brackets, respectively.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

STEP 2: Mark STarting Points On roof In step 2, we’ll draw the installation outline so we know where to install our brackets.

A: Marking Top Left Corner Using the measurements from our solar panels, mark the top left corner of the array. Use chalk to make a plus sign at the exact top left corner.

B: Marking Bottom Left Corner Using the measurements from our solar panels, mark the bottom left corner of the array. Use chalk to make a plus sign at the exact bottom left corner.

C: Marking Bottom Right Corner Using the measurements from our solar panels, mark the bottom right corner of the array. Use chalk to make a plus sign at the exact bottom right corner.

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D: Chalk A Line Between The Points Using a chalk line, align each end of the string to the points you marked in the previous steps. Snap the string to create a straight line.

STEP 3: POSTION FIRST PANEL A: Lift a panel onto the roof In order to safely lift solar panels onto your roof, you will need 2 ladders and at least 2 people. Have each person grab an end of the panel (held vertically) and make your way up the ladders together. Once you get to the top, place the panel on the roof.

B: POSITION PANEL ON ROOF Start at the top left hand corner. Drill a 1/4 inch pilot hole in the top left bracket, and thread your screw in just half way so that the panel is held in place, but leaving yourself some play to maneuver the brackets to their mounts.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

STEP 4: Attach FIRST panel Once that is complete, remove the 2 screws and caulk all the holes with roof caulking and install all 8 screws. Don’t be afraid to use caulking liberally.

STEP 5: Attach REMAINGING panels IN SERIES Install as many panels as you wish from left to right but stop there. At this point, you need to address the cable connection to panel. The wires exiting the panel should be on the bottom side. Zip tie the wires to the bracket that is on the side of the house down which you will be feeding the cable to your basement or garage.

STEP 6: WIRING panels IN SERIES Wire each panel in parallel (amperage stacking, not voltage stacking, which is in series). Make sure all the negatives are connected together and all the positives are connected together. Add your wire loops between each panel. Two between each panel is good. Use the same drilling methods - making sure to caulk prior to permanently attaching panels to roof. Leave the last panel’s wiring open and ready to wire to a cable.

STEP 7: REPEAT STEPS FOR NEXT ROW Begin your next row, following steps 3 - 6.

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Ground mount solar panel Installation If you have the space and live in an area where ground mounted panels are allowed, they’re a great idea. There are a number of different ways to install a ground mounted system. I’ve settled on one that is easy to setup, strong enough to withstand wind and snow, durable enough to last over 25 years and most importantly, cost effective.

WARNING



All recommended products are engineered and tested to withstand state specifications when installed properly. Failure to install properly may decrease the performance of the installation.

safety



All regional safety requirements should be followed when installing recommended products. All equipment/tools should be properly maintained and inspected prior to use. This installation manual is intended for use by those with a good working knowledge of construction principles.

Installation This ground mount installation is based on a premade kit. They’re easy to install and can be joined together for larger systems. Since they are prefabricated, their prices are much lower than purchasing a custom unit. Since most residential installs are roof mounted, this installation guide is brief. If you need more information, look through the installation manual included with the kit itself. Let’s begin.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

what You’ll Need:

PArts & Tools

„„ Post hole digger or powered auger „„ Cordless drill „„ ½” wood drill bit „„ ½” & 9/16” deep socket & ratchet (or impact gun) „„ Small sledge hammer „„ 3 ½” (min) C-clamps „„ String line or laser level „„ Pipe wrench (2 required) „„ Tape measure „„ 3/16 long arm hex wrench „„ Torque wrench with 3/6” hex bit socket „„ Cordless reciprocating saw „„ Wheelbarrow „„ 1 ½ #40 galvanized water pipe



important Footing depths may vary depending on site specific conditions such as sloped hillsides. Review requirements with local building department as necessary.



Helpful Tip To speed up the installation, I recommend you rent a 12” power auger to dig the footings. If not, you can always use a good old shovel.

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STEP 1: Dig Footings A: MARK AND DIG FOOTINGS Following the installation instructions included in the kit, mark the location of the footings. Using a shovel or auger dig the footings.

Cylindrical concrete form footing option

12”

12”

Above Grade

Distance depends on tilt angle (see angle chart)

42”

30”

B: Set the Footing Spacing For the horizontal spacing you want to use 10’ if there’s no snow in your area and 6’ if there is snow. For the vertical spacing you’ll have to use the chart below to determine the spacing. The spacing determines the angle for your solar panels. Array Angle

Footing Distance

o

84” 84”

10o 15o

83” 81”

0 5o

124” and 136” Rail Angle Chart

25o 20o 15o

79” 76” 73”

20o 25o 30o

30o

10o 5o 0o

30” Max from top of footing

73” 76” 79” 81” 83” 84” 84”

42”

124” and 136” Rail 12”

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

60” Max from top of footing

STEP 2: Create Leveling Stakes You’ll need to create stakes to help you level the mounting equipment. If you already have stakes, use them. Otherwise you will need to build stakes using 2”x4”, C-clamps and metal stakes. You may be able to find that at your local hardware store. If you can’t, you can order some from us.

STEP 3: Insert Stakes & Lay Piping A. Insert Grade Stakes Drive grade stakes with a sledgehammer beside each footing and level supports using a string line or laser level.

3” Min.

B. Lay Horizontal Piping Place horizontal 1 ½” 40 galvanized pipe with Hollaender Tees along supports. Adjust the C-clamps as necessary to level the pipe. Use pipe wrenches to join pipe lengths as necessary.

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STEP 4: Measure Pipe Heights & Cut A. Measure Pipe Heights Measure vertical pipe lengths with measuring table from bottom of the footing to horizontal pipe. Deduct 2” from the length to avoid pipe contact with bottom of footing to prevent moisture. Note measured lengths.

2”

B. Cut Measured Pipes Cut pipe lengths using a chop saw, reciprocating saw or portable band saw.

STEP 5: Insert Support Pipes & Center A. Insert Support Pipes Insert vertical pipes into tees and fasten lower tee set screw with long arm hex key.

B. Center Pipes in Footings Center vertical pipes in footings by sliding left or right. You need to leave at least a 2ft. overhang on the ends of the horizontal pipe.

2’ Min.

2’ Min.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

STEP 6: Attach Support Rails With Assembly Rest pre-sloted rail on top of horizontal pipes and insert U-Bolt. Place Drop-N-Lock support rail insert into the rail and align with U-Bolt. Hand tighten nuts. (U-Bolt nuts should be evenly tightened to avoid u-bolt misalignment.) Install at least one rail approximately every 10 feet for proper pipe spacing. Optional Snow Load Enhancer

WARNING



Extruded edges of aluminum can be sharp. Use gloves to prevent injury.

STEP 7: Pour Concrete Pour or pump mixed concrete into footings. Let cure. Follow cure times located on the packaging.

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STEP 8: Remove Forms & Install Solar Panels A. Remove grade stakes Remove grade stakes. Then tighten all tee set screws, both upper and lower, to 17 ft-lbs with torque wrench and hex bit socket.

B. Adjust & Install Rails Adjust initial rails to final location. Install remaining rails. Tighten all U-Bolt nuts evenly with ½” socket or impact gun.

C. Install Solar Modules Install solar modules with pre-assembled clamping hardware. Install EZ rail end caps with adhesive.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

D. Install End caps Install 1 ½” plastic pipe end caps for 40 pipes as necessary.

E. Connect Solar Panels Following the installation instructions provided in your kit, connect the solar panels together in a string.

STEP 9: Complete Ground Mount Installation Now your ground mount installation is ready to be connected to your battery bank.

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3

WIND GENERATOR INSTALLATION

INTRODUCTION With your wind turbine built, you are ready to place it in its final position. Before I go on, let’s discuss a couple of things. Number one being your neighbors. Most people who have built their own energy-producing wind turbine are incredibly proud of what they’ve built, and the level of energy-independence that they’ve achieved. You will probably hold your head high every time you see it whirling away, producing clean and green energy for you and your family to use. You will typically get bombarded with questions like “How much did that cost you?” and “Who makes those things anyway?” But while you may be in awe of your wind turbine, your neighbors may have a different opinion of it. It is strongly recommended that you consult all your neighbors and determine their feelings on the subject. If they complain to the local municipality simply because they don’t like the way it looks, you may be forced to take in down. This would be a real shame after investing your money, time and sweat. It’s in your best interests to do some investigative work and ask around. Safety is another matter to consider. On a windy day, the blades will be spinning anywhere from 50 rpm to 800 rpm. At that speed, they can leave a nasty cut, bruise or even broken bones. So you may need to put a fence up around your turbine, making sure that you leave at least three feet between the top of the fence on the tips of the blades no matter which direction the turbine is facing.

CHOOSING THE BEST SETUP FOR YOUR WIND GENERATOR With that out of the way, let’s talk about placement of the generator. Wind velocity will not be consistently distributed throughout your property. Buildings, hills and the way your

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

neighborhood is constructed are all factors affecting the wind resource on your property. A higher location is always better, but you must be about twenty feet above the highest point in a hundred foot radius in order to capture the maximum amount of wind possible. Normally, regulations only permit towers this large to be erected in a rural setting, out in the country and away from city limits. It is important that you be aware of the necessity of installing “guy wires” on your wind turbine tower if it reaches more than 25 feet into the air. Towers taller than this run the risk of breaking or buckling in even moderate wind conditions. Without guy wires, your turbine could come crashing to the ground, damaging its components, and potentially harming anyone standing too close to the site! This may also result in a dangerous electrical situation in which live current is exposed, creating additional hazards.



important A concrete foundation alone will be insufficient to support a tall tower, even if you use pipe made from high–tensile steel! Only a minimum of three guy wires anchored into proper concrete footings will secure your PowerFreedom system!

On the next few pages you will find diagrams that relate to the safe and effective configuration of guy wires on your wind turbine’s tower. These are optional measures utilizing optional materials, but are considered necessary if you have opted to erect a tower higher than 25 feet. Some turbine towers have been built that require the mounting of the turbine to be done once the tower itself is erect. In other words, requiring the builder to actually climb the tower with turbine in hand in order to complete the installation! We do not condone this, as we see it as an unnecessary risk for untrained people who may or may not have the proper safety equipment (ropes, harnesses, etc). As you will see, our designs for building taller towers allow you to complete the set-up of the turbine itself when you’re still on the ground, and allows for you and a few trusted friends or neighbors to raise your tower safely and easily. If you take your design a few steps further, you will learn that you can also configure your tower to be easily lowered any time you need to perform maintenance! Depending on your wishes, you may need to have some lengths of steel pipe cut to order. If your overall length is too difficult to transport, order the pipe for your tower in two sections with a fitted steel collar to conjoin them at your build site. Some welding may be required as well, but would be a cheap and easy job for anyone with the equipment and training. The largest commercial wind turbines (usually arranged in “farms”) tend to be found mounted on free-standing towers. But for residential use, these are prohibitive to the average energy

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consumer because of the astronomical cost associated with the materials and equipment required to dig deep into the earth to create a solid enough foundation. More commonly seen in back yards are towers constructed of high-tensile steel piping, or metal lattice towers (as used in television and radio antennas) which can be obtained quite easily and cheaply on a second–hand/salvage basis. While you could always use a crane to erect your tower, this also tends to be quite expensive since most people don’t have access to these without renting them and paying a qualified operator to come to your property in order to get your wind turbine up and running. And this could require you to climb to the top of your tower, or up a ladder to dizzying heights should you need to perform inspections, repairs or maintenance. Far safer (and more cost-effective) is using a jin pole with a vehicle or a winch to erect your tower. It is this concept that we will focus on for higher wind turbine towers that need the added safety and support of guy wires. A strong tower is essential for any wind generator if it is going to remain standing and weathering the test of time. In fact, you should probably plan on spending as much building and erecting your tower as you did on the components of your wind turbine itself… if not more!

Towers That Tilt While requiring some additional time, effort and components, this concept is nice because it allows you to perform all work required to mount your turbine on your tower at ground level. A tilting tower will consist of at least three guy wires (but you can use four for added strength, or if your property receives abnormally high wind speeds), some kind of “hinged” base, and a jin pole to give your vehicle or winch added leverage. When raising your tower (assuming you are using the minimum of three guy wires), the 2 side guy wires not being used for leverage are attached with a relative degree of slack, and are tightened independently by two assistants using hand–crank winches. If using four guy wires, only one winch will be needed as none of your equally spaced footings will be passing plumb! The ‘side’ cables when fixed to the guy wire coupling and anchored securely to your footings won’t need to vary in length more than a couple of inches throughout this process, but should still be made as tight as possible using turnbuckles as soon as the tower is brought to an upright position. The remaining guy wire itself is used to attach to your winch or vehicle and is used to do all the lifting. Take note that a 1/4 inch thick cable may not have sufficient strength to support this load and it is highly recommended that you opt for at least a 3/8 inch thick cable for this purpose instead. Your other guy wires don’t need to be more than 1/4 inch thick. Whenever you need to lower your tower, simply perform these steps in reverse.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

Tower Materials „„ Steel Pipe – 2 inch diameter water pipe can be used in conjunction with guy wires to extend to 42 feet (pipe usually available in 21 foot lengths). An additional set of guy wires may be necessary just below the steel collar used to connect the two lengths of pipe, but this will depend on the total weight of your turbine, and the overall height of your tower. „„ Steel Lattice – because of their angular structure, these tend to be extremely strong and even lightweight. They can be expensive if purchased brand new, but inexpensive (or even free) if salvaged or purchased second–hand. You may even have one on your property that has been too much of a pain to get rid of, but until now has served no useful purpose in a day and age of cable-based telecommunications.

Tower Foundations The strongest component should generally be the hinge, so that your tower’s weight is supported during the initial phase of raising your tower, or the final phase of lowering it when there is an inordinate level of lateral stress on the base. You will need to dig a hole about six feet deep to get beyond the frost line, if applicable. Pour your concrete and bolt-in a 1/2 inch steel plate for welding an industrial-grade steel hinge of the same thickness to the base before the concrete sets.

Concrete Bell–Anchor Footings Your guy wire anchors must also be very strong, but more importantly they must be the right shape. If you cast the concrete for anchors in a ‘trapezoidal’ fashion they will be better able to resist the lateral torque that your turbine endures in high winds. The easiest way to do this is to use an everyday object that is about twenty liters in volume, and is wider at the top than at the bottom. Old-style tin washtubs or even plastic laundry baskets are ideal. If this sounds a little too ‘homespun’ for your tastes, you are free to design your own bell anchor footing casts and build them out of wood. Remember to sink steel rings, or rebar loops into the concrete before it sets for the secure attachment of guy wire turnbuckles and hand–crank winches.

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Turnbuckles Try to find the highest-quality turnbuckles available. Models that feature removable bolts at each end to lock-in your guy wires are the easiest to use.

Jin Pole Your jin pole should be firmly welded to your tower and should be made from a 2 inch length of pipe. For maximum efficiency, strength and leverage, your jin pole should be a third of the overall length of your tower. An additional protruding concrete footing may be used to support the jin pole and tower when the jin pole comes down to reach a 90 degree angle. This can be a big help in supporting the tower’s weight when tightening your guy wires.

Guy Wire Clearance If you’re only using one set of guy wires, your guy wire coupling should be welded to the tower as near as possible to the rotation arc of your turbine blades. Take care to ensure that you have the clearance of several inches on all guy wires to accommodate any minor variances in pitch.

If You Are Building A Static Tower… A static tower does not have the ability to be easily raised and lowered. Maybe you have access to a crane or cherry picker truck for the erecting of your tower. Maybe you are so confident in the work that you have put into your project that you can’t ever imagine having to make repairs. Maybe you just like climbing to dizzying heights (and have certified climbing/steeplejack gear). Whatever the case, a static tower goes up and it stays that way for as long as possible. It’s not the best-case scenario according to the PowerFreedom system designs, but the choice is ultimately yours. A static tower does save you the time and hassle of digging and filling a concrete foundation. A simple but strong plank footing (even made out of weather-treated wood) will suffice since it doesn’t need to support the lateral force of tower during raising and lowering. In effect, it only needs to prevent your tower from sinking into the earth. However, long steel stakes (approximately one foot in length) should be driven by sledgehammer through equidistant holes in your base to prevent it from sliding and moving across the ground as the force of the wind puts pressure on your turbine and tower over time… This would result in at least one guy wire becoming slack without warning, and would likely compromise the integrity of your tower’s support system, bringing all your time and hard work crashing to the ground!

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

Whenever you are raising or lowering a tower, it is extremely important to double-check everything before you begin. Additionally, everyone not operating a winch or operating a vehicle or machine should be well away from the tower’s radius in case of an accident. This includes your beloved pets! Remember, it is always best to prepare for the worst in order to avoid it!

Winches Heavy-duty, hand-crank winches are what you will need at the base of each guy wire footing (except, optionally, the cable used for leveraging over the jin pole) to take out the slack as your tower goes up. Most people are unaware that you can usually remove the hand-crank lever and affix a 1/2” drill to the winch to save time and energy. These winches typically cost about $20 $30 apiece. The size of the winch will depend of the gauge of the cable you have decided to use, and the space that its overall length requires when coiled on the winch itself.

ADDITIONAL ITEMS (OPTIONAL) Here are some additional items you may wish to use, depending on your plan: „„ 2” steel pipe (usually available in 21 ft. sections) „„ 1/4” steel guy wire cable „„ Cable-crimpers and locks „„ Crosby cable clamps „„ Metal loops or rings „„ Concrete „„ Heavy–duty, industrial–gage hinge „„ 3–4 heavy–duty, industrial–gage „„ Steel guy wire coupling „„ 1–3 hand–crank cable winches (size depending on length needed) „„ Steel pipe pivot „„ 12” steel ground stakes „„ Arc welding rig „„ Laser or bubble level

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A Static Wind Turbine Tower with Guy Wires:

LEGEND ON PAGE #41

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

A Tilting Turbine Tower with Guy Wires:

LEGEND ON PAGE #41

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Raising A Wind Turbine Tower with Gin Pole And Two Friends:

LEGEND A. Guy wire bell-anchor footings (underground) B. Tower base platform w/steel stakes (above ground) C. Guy wires (steel cable) D. Steel guy wire coupling E. Steel turnbuckles F. Conductive electrical gyro swivel mount G. Concrete foundation (underground – minimum six feet deep) H. Steel pipe pivot (or use your own ‘hinge’ concept) I. Jin pole (one-third of tower height) with cross-brace and metal loop J. Hand-crank winch K. Tower pivot stem (supporting “pivot” and anchored into concrete foundation L. Gin pole line (can be guy wire if equipped with removable-bolt turnbuckle) M. Vehicle with trailer hitch, winch or protruding lash-point affixed to chassis N. Assistants (to wind taut remaining guy wires as the tower is pulled up) O. Bell-anchor footing set up for quick attachment of final turnbuckle bolt

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

Rural PowerFreedom customers are encouraged to opt for a lofty mount such as this, since the electrical yield could well be more than you get from your solar panels under the right conditions – Impressive! For most of you though, this won’t be the mount you use for your wind power setup. And mounts closer to the ground can still provide you with a good deal of power with which to supplement your solar power array. You should never place your generator right next to a high wall, unless it’s sitting on, or near the very top. Wait for a windy day and walk around your property. You will probably be able to feel where you get the most amount of wind. If you can, have another person come with you and see what they think. Compare opinions, and mark the site with paint, chalk or some object that won’t blow away. Now go get your completed wind generator, and your tools, and bring them to the site.

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4

RUNNING POWER CABLES

INTRODUCTION With all of the renewable energy sources mounted securely in place, you are ready to feed power to a common location. I would suggest you install your electrical system right beside your home’s electrical box and not below it. Perhaps it’s never occurred to you, but electrical boxes are always installed a few feet off the ground to protect them from the chances of a flood. You will want your electrical system to be securely mounted at this height, at least. You can purchase a 2 ft. x 4 ft. sheet of plywood and screw it to the wall. Use 1 1/2 inch screws and find the wall studs if it’s a finished basement or garage. Use 8 screws just to be safe.



WARNING If your wind turbine or solar panels are mounted on your roof, please take extra care when working with cables! You could easily become entangled, trip yourself or have a bad fall!

The cables you run must be able to withstand the amperage you will be running, so checking the amperage rating of your cables by voltage is a must. This will tell you how much wattage you can run as long as you do not overdrive the amperage and voltage ratings. Extension cords work well because they usually have a pretty high rating, and they’re waterproof to begin with. Here is an example: Let’s say that you have a 2160 watt solar power system made up of about 20 panels using only 3 watt high efficiency cells. Peak voltage of each panel is 19.8 volts, which means that the

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total peak voltage is also 19.8 volts. 36 cells per panel times 3 watts per cell amounts to 108 watts per panel. To get the amps we must divide 108 watts by 19.8 volts, which gives us 5.45 amps. Therefore, if you are using 25 amp extension cords then you know you can run a total of 4 panels per cable. In this scenario, this also means that your solar power system will need 5 cables in total to feed power from your panels to your electrical system. The same concepts apply to the proper power configuration of your wind generator.

CABLE INSTALLATION SOLAR PANELS Now that you know how to choose what cables and how many you need, it’s time to run your cables. If you are going to run multiple panels through one cable, interlink the panels using the same wiring you used for the inside the solar panel itself. Again, run all the panels in paralleled wiring and then connect the last set of wires to the cable, and crimp the ends together with butt connectors. Use a little silicone on the end so that no wires are exposed. Then use black duct tape to evenly wrap the connector (several times around).

When running cables, choose the shortest distance to run your cables accross to your choosen power location (or battery bank). You should not run any cables along the ground, so you will need to fasten them along the wall, about 2 feet high, using mason wall anchors or loops if you’re mounting into brick, mortar or concrete. Run the cables to the main utility going into the basement. You can drill as many 11/16

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inch holes as you need to run the cables into your home which you will afterwards need to fill with silicone if you want your house to be as energy-efficient as possible. If you wish, you can also cut a piece of wood that will fit into one of the windows in your basement foundation and drill holes through that. Just remember to seal it and run the cables along the top portion of the wall till you reach the site for the PowerFreedom electrical system that you are going to build next. Remember to cover the solar panels before wiring so that the sun does not charge the wires. Old blankets work well as they do a great job of blocking out all light.

ROOF CABLING SETUP

Run your cables using the shortest distance. Run cables to utility and drill into basement. Make sure to check other side first!

WIND GENERATOR For the wind generator, use butt connectors, silicone the ends and duct tape the connector. Run the cables along a fence till you hit your home. Again, run the cables 2 feet above ground till you get to the opening to the basement and continue on. Seal all connectors and don’t forget to block the wind generator with rope or a bungee cord.

YARD CABLING SETUP

Run your cables using the shortest distance. Run cables 2ft off the ground. Run cables on the fence.

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Wiring Methods and Setup In order to make an electrical connection, you need to partially strip away the rubber insulation at the end of the wire. Using a stripping tool, place the end of the wire (about 1/4 inch) into the hole, clamp down on it, then pull the insulation away.

With the end of the wire exposed, give it a twist on the end to firm it up and allow for a more positive connection when you crimp it.

To make a permanent connection between two wires, insert the twisted ends into a properly sized wire crimp. With the ends inside the crimp, take your crimping tool and clamp it hard, crushing the end of the crimp, and holding the wire firmly in place.

It’s not always necessary, but if your wiring connection will be subject to moisture or excessive movement and vibration, it’s a good idea to tape the connection.

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5

CONNECTING YOUR POWER FREEDOM SYSTEM

INTRODUCTION You are now ready to build the PowerFreedom electrical system and add all the equipment that is required to produce electrical power, safely and efficiently. With a wooden board securely fastened to the wall you now have a place to start wiring. When setting up an off-grid system, keep in mind will need enough power to supply your everyday needs in case of an emergency. And that probably means more than a few solar panels in your array! Without a utility company as a backbone, your system will indeed be expensive in start-up costs. You may find at times that you need a gasoline generator, but maybe not. Gas generators can be noisy, but newer models are quieter. However, the cost of gas is expensive as well. Remember, your neighbors may complain about the sound of your gas generator, as well. Before we start wiring, you will need to cover your solar panels and lock-down the rotation of your wind generator to kill power. Some people install a steel pin or locking bolt in their turbine for this purpose, but it is up to you. Just remember that you do not want to work with exposed wires when live power is running through them. So kill that power at its source before you begin!



WARNING Please exercise caution when working with power cables, as mistakes can lead to injury or damage to your components!

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM COMPONENTS Let’s go over some of the electrical components that you will need in detail:

Charge Controllers Solar charge controllers might well be the most complicated part of the whole solar electric system. To start with, there is MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) and PWM (Pulse Width Modulation), diversion loads, equalizing charging, bulk charge, float charge and many more terms related to this device and its inner workings. We won’t get into detail regarding these terms, but a quick search on the internet can give you a breakdown of what each term does for the charge controller. A charge controller limits the rate at which electric currrent is added to or drawn from electric batteries. A charge controller helps prevent overcharging or completely draining (deep discharging) of a battery, which protects your battery’s life in your renewable energy setup. Keep in mind, roughly a 10% to 20% loss of efficiency occurs somewhere between the power going in, and the power coming out. Charge controllers need to use power in order to do their job, and this is where that loss is going.

INVERTERS A power inverted is an electrical device that changes direct current (DC) to alernating current (AC). A power inverted is typically used in solar systems to convert the DC power which comes from the solar panels, to AC power which is needed to power the electronics in your home. Solar inverters have special functions adapted for use with photovoltaic arrays, including maximum power point tracking and anti-islanding protection.



important Remember that your battery bank and charge controllers must be selected and used based on the wattage, voltage and amperage.

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Battery Bank Batteries are required as part of an off-grid system in order to store excess energy. If an offgrid system is not equipped with a battery bank, it must use all the power it generates, or lose it forever. Batteries will have to be replaced (about every 5–15 years) at a cost of at least $1000 for new batteries. In addition to the cost of the batteries is the efficiency, which decreases as the batteries age. Most will start out at about 90% efficiency. However we have a book to help with these problems. Check out “Recondition Old Batteries” for more information.



important Different power grids around the world adhere to different standards and electrical loads! The schematics in the PowerFreedom guides are designed to accommodate the specific characteristics of standardized North American power grids, and my not be applicable where you live. Pay close attention to these details when acquiring batteries, cables, and/or power inverters!

Charge Controllers & Power Monitors There are numerous brands of power monitors on the market that will read and display the electrical load of a motor. Some work in real time, and some make their calculations according to a scheduled routine, and will display their readings as more of an average-over-time. Both work great, and can really provide you with a lot of useful information that you can use to manage your energy consumption, but real time power monitors will provide for a more accurate analysis of where power is being used in your home from one minute to the next. When a home’s usage spikes three times daily, modern digital power monitors can tell that this is the home’s refrigerator, and will come to ‘learn’ the patterns that accompany the power draws from other appliances. Furthermore, these monitors can even deduce diagnostic conclusions about how efficiently your appliances are running, whether they are in need of repair or replacement, as well as other programmable features for setting efficiency targets during different peak periods. Some very exciting brands of power monitors have come out in the last year or so. Many now come equipped with software that connects them to your home WiFi internet signal so that you can get readings as either SMS updates on a mobile phone or full-color charts on a real-time smart phone app! What sets apart the smart charge controllers in this way is that you can communicate two-way with them through an enabled mobile handset. In other words, you can manage the power output coming from your solar panels and wind turbines no matter where you are! It’s a pain to have to be at home in order to monitor your system first-hand. But this can be necessary without a good charge controller, depending on your configuration.

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You will need a dump load in case your batteries are full and you are still making electricity. Most charge controllers come with internal dump load (aka: “diversion load”) boxes that will automatically stop charging your battery bank when they reach their maximum charge. If you don’t have a dump load you could destroy your batteries, or start a fire! Now, if you’ve already done your own research on renewable energy systems, and wind turbines in particular, then you know that some very expensive, commercially-manufactured turbines come with internal safety brakes that slow your turbine down to a complete stop in the event that there is no longer anything handling the load. But sometimes brakes fail. This, and the added requirement of having to install computerized sensors into your PowerFreedom system are the main reasons that an easy and affordable way to do this hasn’t yet been included in our guides. However, a smart charge controller will allow you to remotely “pull the plug” on your system wherever you are when your batteries get full. This feature would also be useful in an area where there is even an outside change that you might one day receive much higher wind speeds (maybe in the form of a severe storm) than you normally receive, or have calibrated your system to accommodate. If you’ve opted for a lighter motor in your wind turbine to optimize your chances of getting a decent output at lower wind speeds, then your motor itself, and maybe even your power inverter and the other components of your PowerFreedom electrical system, will be at risk of being overdriven and burnt-out. This can mean bad news for your system, your home and anyone in the area if you don’t do something quickly. This is where your smart charge controller can fill the technology-gap in your system. By setting it up to send you either an SMS or email notification when a certain threshold output (set by you) is reached, you can shut it down immediately without having to worry about whether or not the brake is going to click in and hold. While it’s true that your turbine will continue to spin madly in the high winds, the current it generates will be absorbed by the load dump. High winds have been known to damage turbines – especially the blades, which can crack and break off if you’ve used a lighter-weight material like PVC for their construction. Still, these fixes are usually repairable in a few minutes, and are still cheap even if an entire blade needs rebuilding and replacing. Compared to the cost of repairing the damage that could result if you don’t have the ability to shut it down in an emergency, it’s next to nothing! But these are extreme scenarios we’re examining here. Nobody’s trying to scare you with talk of batteries overloading and electrical fires, but as we’ve already stated, it is vital that you understand the risks before getting into any electrical project that you may or may not completely understand. So breathe easy! The best reasons to use power monitor/charge controller setups is that they enable their owners to better manage the power they use, and expose scenarios in which they are wasting power so that they can go forward with reaping huge savings on their utility bills! Most households pay thousands of dollars a year for electricity! But either of these two devices can easily help you save 10-20% on your electric bill – hundreds of dollars, or more, every year. In fact, the average savings you get by using these devices will cover their cost in the first year alone, so don’t be afraid of including these additional expenses in your PowerFreedom system! And the more you save, the more you will be helping your neighbors, helping your community, and protecting our environment.

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OFF-GRID SETUP The main thing that differentiates the off-grid system from more conventional on-grid systems is that a power monitor and battery bank are NOT optional. But, you only need a regular sine wave inverter which will save you some cash. Everything otherwise flows in the same order as the grid-tie setup. It isn’t necessary, but it IS strongly advised that you incorporate a gas generator into your system, and that the monitor your purchase should have a generator remote switch. The system power monitor will detect your nearly-empty batteries and will automatically turn on the gas generator, and cut power to the inverter. Once the batteries are fully charged, the monitor will shut the generator off and turn the inverter back on. You will have to feed the power cables from the generator which will need to be outside (but close enough to the main electrical panel in your basement so that a licensed electrician can easily wire it from there).

SOLAR SETUP SOLAR PANELS OPTIONAL GENERATOR

INVERTER

CHARGE CONTROLLER

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

HOUSE

BATTERY BANK

SOLAR & WIND SETUP SOLAR PANELS

CHARGE CONTROLLER

WIND GENERATOR

INVERTER

HOUSE

BATTERY BANK

CONNECTING A BATTERY BANK Wiring in Parallel Assuming you have 12v batteries and are planning to wire them to a 12v inverter, you’re going to be doing so by wiring the batteries, one to another, in parallel. In parallel wiring, voltage stays the same while amperage is increased, so you end up with more amp hours without increasing voltage. Wiring in parallel is the most common setup for solar PV battery banks. If you are using 6v or even 2v batteries, or if you are using a 24v power inverter, you will want to pay close attention to the next two sections of this chapter for the information relevant to your system. With 12 volts for both battery and inverter, you’ve got to wire the batteries together without increasing voltage. This is easily done by connecting the positive terminal of the first battery to

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the positive terminal of the next, and so on until you reach the end of your battery bank. Do the same with the negative terminals. Here’s an example: Let’s say you have six batteries which are 12v by 350 amp hour rated. By linking the positive terminals to one another, starting from the first and going to the next, you will have a continuous positive connection from the first battery to the last. The same goes for your negative connections. The end result is a 12v by 2100 amp hour (350 x 6) battery bank.

Wiring in Series If you need to increase voltage in order to meet your needs, then you’ll want to wire in series rather than in parallel. Using a series connection increases the battery bank’s voltage while leaving the amperage the same. This wiring method is exactly the opposite of parallel, in that the positive terminal of the first battery is connected to the negative terminal of the next. Then the negative of the first is connected to the positive of the next, and so forth. At the end of this ‘daisy-chain’ you still have two wires, but they’ve overlapped several times going from positive to negative and back again. At the end of the line, with our 12v by 350 amp hour batteries, we have a 72v by 350 amp hour battery bank.

Combining Series and Parallel Now, let’s look at using both series and parallel circuits to increase your batteries’ output to your inverter’s specifications. As an example of this, we will use our six battery bank again, but this time we will configure a 24v configuration instead of a 12v. This means that we’re working with a 24v inverter and our six batteries are 12v by 350 amp hours. To convert our battery bank to a 24v setup, you’ll need to combine your batteries in pairs to make them 24v batteries. Basically, you’ll make two complete 24v by 350 amp hour series, and then you’ll combine those sets of two together in parallel to make up a total combined 24v by 1050 amp hour battery bank. First, we’ll organize our batteries into three sets of two. As above, each of these sets will be combined to make one big battery out of the two batteries in the set. Connect the first battery to its mate, positive to negative, in a series. Then we’ll connect the negative to the positive, making the two batteries into a single unit, running at 24v. Do the same thing with each of the other two sets, making three sets of 24v batteries. Combine these three together in parallel (positive to positive to positive, negative to negative to negative). This gives you a total of 24v and 1050 amp hours. You can do this same thing with 2v, 6v, or any other voltage of batteries to make up whatever total voltage or amperage you need.

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How To install your off-grid solar system and save $1000’s

Where The Power Inverter/Charge Controller Comes In... At this point, now that your battery bank is installed and ready to go, you can set up the inverter and (if you have one) charge controller in the same fashion as outlined at the beginning of this chapter. The best inverters will come equipped with monitoring systems that watch for changes in the input from the batteries, but you can wire these common and inexpensive devices in separately if your inverter is a basic model. There are several good reasons why you should invest in a monitor for your system: 1. Your monitor will give you the earliest signs that a battery is going bad. If you check your system regularly and watch the changes in it, you’ll see something is wrong immediately and can then check each battery individually to find the culprit. 2. When the batteries get low because they haven’t received a charge in some time (bad weather, disconnected or damaged solar panels, etc.), a good controller can shut off high-load applications in your electrical system to prevent total battery discharge. This will help preserve the lives of those expensive batteries. 3. Power monitors can also be an extra defense against surges, unexpected failures, or sudden changes in your power usage that could cause harm. If you’re running your entire home’s power supply from your renewable energy system, you will need to be conscious of your peak loads. If, for instance, you’re running your computer and your television and someone else in your family (who is unaware of what you’re doing) turns on the hairdryer and dishwasher, you could potentially overload your whole system! A good controller will prevent this. The rest of your installation should be configured according to manufacturers’ recommendations for safety and optimization.



important Set the unit up in its permanent location BEFORE you connect any power cables or wiring! MAKE SURE ALL POWER IS SECURELY SWITCHED-OFF BEFORE YOU BEGIN! If you aren’t totally comfortable with setting up this part of the system, STOP IMMEDIATELY and call a qualified electrician and have it done right. DO NOT “MAKE DO” WITH SUBSTANDARD EQUIPMENT when installing high powered electrical items!

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6

CONCLUSION

Closing remarks Now Get Busy! This installation guide, combined with your how-to building manuals for solar panel array and wind turbine construction have provided you with all of the knowledge, insight and components necessary for completing your very own PowerFreedom renewable energy system in a weekend, or less! Take your time with the materials, ask any questions you need to, and consult local area professionals for first-hand assistance in any area of your project, should you need it. If you’re unsure about any aspect of your project, whether technical or safety-related, stop working immediately! We are confident that generating your own clean and green power will be as easy and rewarding for you as it has been for thousands of our satisfied customers! Join the growing ranks of Americans today who have taken control over what they pay for electricity and how much they use, and help pave the way for a better and brighter future!

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